cuba notes

Note to self in lobby of Hotel Raquel, Havana - don’t wait too long to come back to Cuba  - take the train to anywhere with Cindy … next stop Marrakech.

thighs and cigars

viva cuba

You thought you knew a good cigar … little known and somewhat interesting facts about cigars … the word cigar comes from the indigenous Cuban word “sikar” loosely translated as “the act of smoking”; the word “cohiba” is the indigenous name for the shell used to hold tobacco leaves when they were smoked; cigars should not be lit with anything other than a cedar splint (lighters give off fumes); you should never tap the ash off the end of the cigar – apparently it draws better when there is a lot of ash; the larger the diameter of the cigar the milder the taste (ladies do not smoke the little thin ones – they are the strongest); the recipe for Cohibas was “cooked-up” by a worker in a cigar factory who made them for his own enjoyment (all workers are allowed to take home 3 cigars a day) – his boss asked for one of his cigars one day and the rest is expensive cigar history; there are 64 shades of brown by which cigars are colour graded and colour has no influence on flavour whatsoever; banding of cigars is only done by women; cigar boxes in Cuba all come from Canada; and we could not find any cigars that were rolled on thighs …

Make me a cohiba

coco taxi

Most fascinating visit to Partagas Cigar factory which ironically sits right beside the Capitol Building.  600 workers on 5 floors perform the 9 steps required for the perfect cigar.  All brands made here to their own distinct recipe – Cohibas, Monte Cristos, Partagas, Bolivar and Romeo y Julieta.  Tobacco arrives in bales from countryside, “Cuban Black” tobacco, all natural and air dried.  It is graded according to colour, the “wrapper” is perfect; stripped of leaf veins and ironed flat with wet hands.  Leaves are put into “recipe” bundles and then given to cigar makers who know what they are making – be it a Monte Cristo # 4 or a big-daddy Cohiba.  Each cigar maker has undergone 9-12 months of training – only 35% pass the grade.  The cigar makers all in one room at long wooden tables, room is hot, windows thrown wide open.  Each one makes 80-120 cigars per day all of which are attributed to their “number” – random and stringent testing rejects 5-8% of all cigars made.  In the front, centre of room an impressive wooden table where sits the “reader”.  The most import and most respected man in the building.  He reads to the rollers – the newspaper in the morning and then a novel or poetry in the afternoon – the only sound the clipping of cigars, or the rustle of tobacco leaves.  Monte Cristo cigars got their name from this ritual – the yet un-named cigars were being made whilst the Count of Monte Cristo was being read … In the back rooms the completion – banding, boxing, sealing and putting to rest in giant humidors before export.

Cuba Libre and Hemingway

rum museum tunes

Before I went to Cuba I thought this was a battle cry of sorts, sort of like “viva la revolution” or Obama’s election chant of “yes we can.”  Very shortly, minutes in fact, after arrival, I realized it is in fact the national drink, a thing of legend, never to be refused and never to be preceded by the words “it’s a little early don’t you think”.  Cubans revere their rum and no place better to see this than at the “Fundacion Havana Club”, the cathedral of rum.  Our guide, the body double of a ‘70’s Mod Squad girl (male friend Chris again mesmerized); waltzes us through the process from cane harvest to the final product all the while backed by afro-Cuban jazz from the bar in the lobby.  It is 10 am and we are learning to mix and drink mojitos … Hemingway would have been proud.

10 am mojito

By all accounts Hemingway was a great drinker – his drink of choice was Cuban rum – in a mojito or a daiquiri.  The daiquiri was reported invented in Havana at one his favourite haunts “La Floridita” just down the street from the fabulously pink façade of Hotel Ambos Mundo where he lived for 7 years. 

One can spend an entire trip to Cuba just visiting places Hemingway lived and drank … we gave it a good shot and even ventured out one day to Cojimar, the fishing village close to where he lived and was inspired to write The Old Man and the Sea.  Beside La Terraza where Hemingway dined at the corner table, we visit with the son of Raul Corrales, Fidel’s revolutionary photographer who travelled with him and Che Guevara – capturing Che in the famous black and white images women still swoon over.

Buena Vista dancing

Music and cigars compete with rum for top spot.  Our lunch at the Hotel Conde Villeanueva hosted by “Romeo y Julieta” cigars is accompanied by Amadito Valdez, drummer from the Buena Vista Social Club who regales with stories and a quest for a gig in North America.  He plays a few songs for us, sips the golden nectar and a thick coffee.  We wander off through streets and come upon a handball court, very competitive and they won’t let us play.  Everywhere the most fascinating architecture – neo-classic courtyards and crumbling arcades, beside Spanish colonial indulgences, colourful Moorish tiled interiors and baroque cathedrals. 

hotel raquel

But perhaps the most wonderful the perfect Art Deco gems – the Bacardi edifice and the dining room of the Hotel Raquel where we sit to admire the stained glass.  Sunset brings 1950’s convertibles for a race along the malecon and the crashing ocean, to the famous Tropicana Cabaret.  The cha-cha-cha, mambo and salsa from dancers bedecked into feathers and small bits of clothing.  Male friend Chris is mesmerized, falls into a trance and believes he is able to dance – he is not alone – several foreigners looking awkward and dancing girls looking gorgeous.  Cuba Libre … the great equalizer.

i think i can dance chris

Havana heyday

Havana, legendary capital of gangsters, gambling and girls; magnet for the rich and famous in the 30’ and 40’s where Lucky Luciano held court on the wide verandah of the Hotel National – a mere 3 hours from the east coast.   Burnt into our collective memory by Cuba’s almost native-son, Ernest Hemingway who may have captured it all when he noted “in terms of beauty, only Venice and Paris surpass Havana”.  Protected today by UNESCO the old city is a warren of grand Spanish colonial buildings, ancient plazas and “wedding cake” churches.  Cobblestoned streets with balconied houses line dozens of streets and weathered wooden shutters keep out the sun.  A sense of perfect decay, buildings speaking of a past that was much more interesting than picket fences.  Everywhere people living, laundry on wrought-iron balconies, afro-Cuban music coming from somewhere, sidewalk pastry vendors and men in cafes with glasses of golden rum and coffee.  We are whisked to the roof of a penthouse overlooking the malecon where waves crash against the seawall.  Lunch to the sounds of a perfect rendition of “Diana” – our first of many mojitos and cigars.  Sunset on the pool deck high above the city and at late night walk through Cathedral Square to Hemingway’s Bodeguita – people wander in from the street and join in the music.  We buy mojitos all round just to keep them singing – they don’t need much encouragement.

asante sana africa

life in dar

Unexpected layover in Dar with ex-pat friends.  A city dismissed at first sight actually fascinating.  Lovely old colonial house overlook Indian Ocean, sunset sailing from the yacht club with mining execs posted here.  We visit the Slipway to shop for beautiful beaded belts and jewellery, lunch of fresh shrimp on patio of Sea Cliff Hotel.  The dusty Tingatinga market is overflowing with paintings in typical style depicting daily life and social issues.  On the way home stop at roadside vegetable stand for huge pineapples and mangos – have forgotten what it is like to bargin for everything.  Friend, originally Australian and here with family on mining contract, has taken to buying old dhows from fisherman in villages up and down the coast and turning ancient, weathered wood into furniture.  Ex-pat community from all over the world – international school and good hospital – hardship posting if you have to actually work here but social life, sailing, endless beaches and diplomatic parties off set all that.

serengeti, dar and beyond

Up and out with our ranger to great herds of topi, impala, buffalo and ostrich mating dances. We go to small village of Nata; I venture into the centre of the local market; piles of dry fish from Lake Victoria, massive papayas, dried casava and cones of red millet for sale. Music is blaring and he local “Texas Bar” is open … Saturday night after all. Julie waits in landrover a little unnerved by stares – not many muzungus come this way. We continue to high school with Grumeti Reserve conservationist who teaches students at local environmental school set up on the Reserve. Students come from this school – five teachers for 650 students and the all feel lucky to finally have a school, meals prepared for 25o boarders over open fires.

Destination tonight Singita Sabora Tented Camp- set around acacia tress on the flat plains of the Serengeti. Classic 1920′s safari style tents, campaign furniture, lit by lanterns, bathrooms with claw foot tubs and leather floor, outdoor shower and all amenities one could wish for. Game drive at sunset bring us up against pride f 14 lions just metres away – they make direct eye contact and lick their lips – makes one a little edgy. Sunset drinks with a dozen giraffe against the horizon and back to camp. Night filled with hyena calls and far away lions. All so still and so quiet that sounds are magnified.

singita splendour

Dar in daylight looks a lot better but it is still HOT. Hop on a charter to Arusha and from there across the cone dotted highlands and on through to the western Serengeti.  Destination Singita Sasakwa Lodge in the Grumeti Reserve.  Airstrip a red slash on the huge green grass plains. 

Sasakwa defies description.  Perched on a high ridge, suites fan out from verandah fronted public rooms.  Vintage African country house bedroom and sitting room; glass fronted bathroom with views of huge Africa – and private infinity pool.  A pre-dinner game of snooker and bed … although it seems more appropriate to retire to ones’ palatial chambers - they are so spectacular.

Up and out with our ranger to great herds of topi, impala, buffalo and ostrich mating dances.  We go to small village of Nata; I venture into the centre of local market; piles of dry fish from Lake Victoria, massive papayas, casava and piles of red millet all for sale.  music is blaring and the local “Texas Bar” is open … it is Saturday afternoon after all.  We continue to high school with Grumeti Reserve conservationist who teaches students at local school set up on Reserve.  Five teachers for 650 students and they all feel so lucky to finally have a school. 

dar es salaam tanzania

sunrise on zimbabwe

save a lion – preserve a lifestyle

durban kwazulu natal

Speaking of twist … South Africans take great pride in their range and sometimes irreverent slang.  I mention only a few - “just now” which means something could happen in the next 2 minutes, the following day, next week or perhaps never; “bunny chow” - nothing to do with eating small rabbits but in fact a spicy curry served in a hollowed out loaf of bread; “skabanga” Savanna Dry – a delicious cider enjoyed at any time of the day (an SMS message “quick skabanga?” recieved at 10.30 am can be readily agreed to); “shark tank” - nothing to do with a horrible death while swimming but is Durban’s rugby stadium where all who enter as competitor should apparently loose hope; Johannesburgs’ Gauteng Province car plate initials are ”GP”- referred to by everyone who does not live there as standing for “Gangsters Paradise”.   

FIFA Cape Town

bombay bicycle club

Cape Town is ready for FIFA – the airport is sparkling new, roads in and out of the city have been upgraded and the new Greenpoint Stadium is sitting beautifully on the seafront waiting for the games to begin.  New hotel properties such as the One&Only are buzzing with anticipation and the lobby bar with its magnificent views is full of FIFA planners.  We stopped by the Dock House, formerly the harbour masters’ house and now a 6-room hotel – a gem surrounded by gardens – the wide verandah overlooking a pool – and all within walking distance of cobblestoned walkways, street performers and restaurants of the V&A waterfront. Of course we have to eat – Willoughby’s best-sushi-in-the-world on the waterfront where we struggle to get a table but finally settle at the bar with front-seat view of the action.  Another night sees us at the Bombay Cycle Club – Johnny Depp look-a-like behind the bar amid Moroccan lanterns and steak done in chilli and chocolate sauce.  Manage to squeeze in some great hiking in Cape of Good Hope – to combat the eating.  This city is a joy but more so than ever with FIFA fever …

cape of good hope

day 13 – fika salama

Our last day in Africa.  Terrific storm last night coming in over Lake Victoria.  Incredible memories – mission accomplished – fabulous itinerary nailed for those wishing best of Uganda and intro to Rwanda – gorillas and many other things.  Look for full details in a couple of weeks. 

celebrating gorillas - clouds mountain gorilla lodge

Thanks to The Uganda Safari Company and Wildplaces - Zara, Jonathan and everyone at Emin Pasha, Semliki Lodge, Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge – John Mugabwa from Volcanoes Safaris – Bernard de Wetter at Sabyinyo Silverback - Emmanuel Bugingo from Gorilla Organization for being inspirational – Paul Ntaganda from Hotel Mille Collines – Wafula from Gorillas Hotel Kigali – and many others along the way.  And mostly to Africa for never letting up on overwhelming all senses.  Fika Salama – travel well.

day 12 – ngamba island, lake victoria

give me a break - more musungus

Flew short 35 mins Kigali back to Kampala last night and early this am to Entebbe Pier for trip by boat across Lake Victoria to Ngamba Island.  Chimpanzee sanctuary about 40 mins away on isolated, densely forested island, home to 44 animals – rescued from various places around the world – suitcases at airports, in national parks with snares around limbs, from poachers across Africa, orphaned when parents killed for bush-meat trade, zoos around the world and private nit wits.  Arrive in time for 11 am feeding – screeching, howling cacophony as they come out of forest – right on time.  Much more aggressive than gorillas – greedily hoard as much of food and then lurk off to spots on edge of forest to eat.  Just as quickly an hour later they disappear -  they have run of whole island except small corner which is fenced off for keepers and visitors.   Chimps share 98% of our DNA – uncanny resemblance to behavior seen late at night where alcohol or ego are involved.  Back to Kampala for last night in Africa …

day 11 – kigali and kanga

Viva FIFA

day 10 – batwa and bathmats

Emmanuel Bugingo from Gorilla Organization (GO) picked us up – visited GO projects around Ruhengeri – organic farms, water reservoirs, seed banks, adult literacy – mandate is to bring people out of forest to protect gorilla habitat.  Onward towards Lake Kivu and north-western border of Rwanda and Democratic Republic of Congo, to another project; social integration of historically marginalized Batwa Pygmies.  Two hours of rolling hills, pot holes, fields of potatoes and beans, bumping and squelching through mud, rivers of chasing children.  Batwa community lies 200m from the DRC at the foot of Mount Karasimbi – no fences, no border control – just more Africa!

82 people living in huts as they did in the forest – no shoes, hand forged tools – GO bought them land, taught them farming – Emmanuel mentors progress.  Just finished first harvest of potatoes, maize being planted as we watched.  Not one person in community has ever been to school – $800 earned from first harvest will enable kids to start school in January.

Continued on to Gisenyi on Lake Kivu – interesting combination of wild frontier town and colonial getaway.  Lovely late lunch on lake shore at Café Paradis Malahide – fresh tilapia done 10 different ways – yum!  Overnight at brand new Gorillas Lake Kivu Hotel, tried to buy bathmat…doesn’t everyone want a bathmat embossed “Hotel Gorillas”?

day 9 – monkey on your back

bamboo forest

Drive up to the end of track and start making for park boundary fence – 74km of volcanic rock wall. Duck and dive through 30 foot high bamboo forest and foot long earthworms. An hour later, sticks down, packs off and there they are again…longer haired this time as we are over 3000m. Silverback Charles leads the family but Bunyenyeri the young black back steals the show – thumps his chest and leaps on back of tracker, while guides shout “NO PHOTO, NO PHOTO!” I almost pass out. Feisty he comes back for more but with gentle boot on bum finally moved off. Remaining time gives us a chance to watch sub adults play – our heart rates return to normal.

On to new home Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge – 2558m above sea level – roaring fire in room, hot bath and magnificent views of volcanoes from verandah.  Fabulous dinner with Manager and much discussion on Rwanda and gorillas … Ahhhhhhhh !

Bunyenyeri

day 8 – virunga mountains

Terraces and Virungas

Spent down day on deck overlooking lakes – three hour hike in afternoon through villages. Incredible population density – 480 people per sq km – every inch of land cultivated – houses on impossibly steep slopes – very little livestock – there is no room and seems impossible to sustain. Dinner with couple of Namibian guys just in from Bujumbura, Burundi – many stories. Nightcap listening to absolute silence as Rwanda sleeps – so many people all around and not a single sound – no cars, no music, no voices, no lights just the smell of wood smoke.

day 7 – into rwanda

Uganda Rwanda border

Left our friends at Clouds, two hour bumpy bone jarring track to Kisoro – overnight in depressing dark, damp lodge, surroundings improved considerably with the amount of Chivas imbibed (no ice)!

Up early to border crossing, picture tells the story, customs and immigration a breeze.

Into Rwanda and Volcanoes Virunga Lodge perched high above the lakes.

day 6 – village wander

Gentle start to witness village life.  School is in session – bright blue uniforms, smiles, 5 classrooms, 452 pupils – 6 to 14 years old.  Local soccer field, highest point in village – only flat ground around!  360 degrees views.  Women cultivating, clearing, terracing, planting…back breaking work.

Next we try our hand grinding millet at local brewery – two 25 gallon drums – enter bar; dank dark room, hand carved stools – $1 buys you a calabash full….

Move on to village blacksmith – bellows: a hollowed out forked log, covered with goat skin and worked by hand – Nicolas, master craftsman forges a knife with precision – 15minutes and $1 later- sale concluded.

Meander down main track through village, ducks and ducklings for sale on grass verge, lodge sponsored community pig project prospering on lodge left overs – two have become eight

day 5 – bwindi gorillas

Blissful early coffee in secluded cottage at Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge after cool night offset with crackling fire, warm duvets and steaming showers.  Gorillas on agenda today.  All precautions taken against nettles, mud, rain and steep terrain – look like overdressed fools heading up to Ranger Station two minutes from Lodge.  Safety briefing and off we set – anticipation high. 

Down, down winding mountain paths, villages, bananas, beans, coffee, goats, chickens – children shouting hello.  Final extreme descent over carpet of nettles, roots, long grass.  Suddenly drop walking sticks, backpacks off – Ranger whispers gorillas closeby.  Nervous, excited – out of undergrowth a young adult male approaches, sits down only metres away, tears of branches and begins to eat – we do not exist.  Through thicket family of 19 approach – entire Nkuringo Family - including 3 Silverbacks and 11 month old twins riding on mother’s back.  They surround us – eat, play, sleep – unconcerned.  Permitted hour ends way too soon.  Exhilarated!

day four – south through uganda

After leaving Semliki and a quick stop at Andrews Brothers in Fort Portal for road trip supplies we were off.  Road is paved and our progress brilliant – the diversity of Uganda is astonding.  In a few hours we have gone through Queen Elizabeth Park with it’s open plains (had to make a fast stop as two lions wandered across the highway right in front of our car).  West snow-capped peaks of volcanoes, glaciers of the Rwenzoris – and east Lake George.  We pass the Kazinga Chanel and turn towards the isolated Ishasha Sector, whose giant fig trees are home to famous tree climbing lions.  Finally descending to Lake Edward and our final destination – Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

Headed for luxurious Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge we hike in from Buhoma, a small town on the Congolese border on north end of Bwindi NP – the drive around otherwise is a bone-jarring 4 hours which drivers make with our luggage.  Forest dripping with ferns, creepers and giant trees – primary forest in all it’s glory.  Mist drifts in an out of valleys and sound of waterfalls all around.  Arriving at river our next challenge – a vertigo-inspiring bridge (I use the word bridge lightly).  We decide (to the horror of our National Parks Ranger), to take our chances and wade across barefoot.  One more hour up – at trailhead a welcome sight – vehicles from Clouds with a cooler of  drinks and cold towels.  There is just enough light as we reach Lodge to take in distant volcanoes, rainforest and villages below – feeling like we have arrived at the top of the world.  Clean up, drinks around roaring fireplace, volcanoes glowing in distance across border and drums beating in valley below.  So many varied landscapes in just one day.

day three – in search of chimpanzees

Chances apparently high as chimps spotted night before. Trail awash with water and mud clings generously to boots. Baboons tucking in to their morning breakfast at fig tree.

Onwards and upwards steep climb to view point. Guides scan tree line and spot what looks like a chimp. Trek back towards river far in distance was what we had all come to see, a large chimpanzee. Descend, up, down, through heavily overgrown animal trails, grass over our heads, a few more sightings, none up close and personal. Back on main trail, humid, hot and heading home, suddenly chimps yelling alarm, close by? Ranger freezes and points; coming directly up trail towards us – large chimp, followed by 3 others. Just meters in front of us they swerve off trail and melt back into forest. Breathtaking.

day two – west from kampala

A seven hour drive west towards the Congo and Ruwenzori’s (Mountains of the Moon). The country side so green, so lush, roadside markets piled high with produce, truck loads of bananas and tea carpeting the hillsides. Through Fort Portal, long windy road into Semliki Wildlife Reserve which lies in rift valley on south end of  Lake Albert.  Good company all the way with owner of Wildplaces  Uganda; Jonathan Wright and stories of his return to Uganda in 1990 after 18 years in exile. Semliki Lodge lies on road to Ntoroko, a fishing village infamous for blood diamonds and gold smuggled out by boat of neighboring Congo. Lodge an oasis – thatched tents on platforms overlooking Central African rainforest – black and white colobus monkeys leaping from tree to tree outside our room, birds and forest sounds, thunderstorm coming across mountains. Dinner on beautiful verandah– fabulous steaks, South African wine and more stories – all rounded off with a Semliki slammer (passion fruit cut in half filled with palm wine). Up early tomorrow for chimps…..

day one – kampala

You know you have arrived in Africa when the airport announcements are for Kigali, Zanzibar, Dar es Salaam, Brazzavillle, Bujumbura and Kampala … which is where I landed earlier today.  An hour later I was off to visit an AMREF project in Kawempe, one of the many slums that are today awash in red mud from torrential rain. I have supported AMREF’s work for over 10 years and encouraged others to do the same (see link).   This particular project supports commercial sex workers – teaching them alternative ways to earn money – tailoring, hairdressing, etc.  The woman work in a tiny dark room on ancient sewing machines running up the latest African fashions.  One of them told me her story … from the age of 5 with no parents Jane grew up in the slums and fell in with other street workers, first doing their laundry and housekeeping and when she was old enough turning tricks.  She has 3 children by three different fathers.  But she has not turned a trick for 5 years and at 24 is now working as a mentor to other young prostitutes and making enough from tailoring to pay for her children to go to school.  She is HIV positive but was “happy to find out – I had no more fear”.  On the street using a condom earns $3 – no condom and you make $12 so once she knew she was positive she stopped insisting on condoms and earned way more - she felt she had nothing to loose.  AMREF has 40 woman sewing in three shifts a day and they all mentor other woman. The young woman were snickering as they paged through old magazines and patterns books much like young woman anywhere.   They wanted to make me a dress – I guess I looked a litte travel weary … so off to clean up for dinner with the owners of the fabulous Emin Pasha Hotel in Kampala …

day zero – toronto

Follow me over the next few weeks on my adventure through Uganda and Rwanda – enjoy the ride!